Ellena, Gervasutti, Rivero, Boccalatte, Rossa…in the Sbarua they climbed legendary routes even before rock climbing was born in Italy. Here you go into a time machine where distinction and adventure are within your grasp on rock faces at 5 minutes from the mountain hut. In Sbarua you can find routes which leave a mark in every climber’s career: the Vena di Quarzo, the Gervasutti-Ronco, the Guido Rossa and many more!
Climbers on the Via Normale in Rocca Sbarua
Exit from the “Gervasutti-Ronco”, roped party meets up.
Are you a beginner? Come closer to the crags in Rocca Sbarua
Do you want to experience climbing but you don’t know where to start? Here you can find suitable paths for beginneers: the area of the Via Normale, the cliffs of Qui, Quo e Qua without forgetting a stop in Freak Street.
Lorenzo Porporato on the “Vena di Quarzo”
Climbing sport routes
Do you always climb on limestone? Do you think to be one who “holds on”? Come here to fight against our granite: wall, flat slab, striking cliffs. A TOTAL experience! Not to be missed: Interval Training, Spigolo Bianciotto, Strapiombo Rosso, Via degli Amici!
Climb trad
Grooves, friends and nuts: the splits of Sbarua are good to know the crack climbing techniques, from easy to legendary routes as the Fessura del Nero…
Lorenzo Porporato brushes by the final dihedral on the “Gervasutti-Ronco”. Below the Melano Hut.
Bouldering
We are not in Rocklands. That’s fine. But to all of ones who say “Sbarua is for old people” here are some problems to try out. Like the memorable boulder (Grassi used to climb it with boots ndr) and much more. If you take us the video of your climb of Cats VS Printers you win 3 beers. You can download the guide here Mappa blocchi Sbarua.
Bouldering near the hut. Left on the memourable boulder, right on Cats Vs Printers.
Reaching the Melano Casa Canada Hut
More details in the proper page “Where we are”
Climbing in the Area
1 – Masso del Grosso – Fessura del Nero – Torrione del Drago, 2 – Bianciotto – Mont Blanc – Vena di Quarzo, 3 – Normale, 4 – Iniziazione e Meteora, 5 – Placche Gialle, 6 – Belvedere, 7 – Sperone Rivero, 8 – Freak Street, 9 – Torrione Grigio, 10 – Argonauti, 11 – Sperone Cinquetti, 12 – Torre del Bimbo, 13 – Torrione Pacciani, 14 – Torrione Anna, 15 – The Magic Mushroom (Fungo), 16 – Torrione Alice, 17 – Torrione Rubinetto, 18 – Torrione del Nonno, 19 – Torrione Manera (o della Nonna), 20 – Barra del Freidour, 21 – Torrione del Condor.
These are the two reference guidebooks published by Versante Sud. You can buy them at the Melano Casa Canada hut, in the specialist bookshops or on the Versante Sud website. Here below are some pictures from the historic guides of the Rocca.
- The climbing map is dedicated to the Rocca Sbarua Area
- Passaggio a Nord Ovest shows also other areas and cliffs in Western Piedmont.
ROCCA SBARUA – Climbing Map of routes and cliffs in Sbarua Author: Maurizio Oviglia
PASSAGGIO A NORD-OVEST: routes and cliffs in Western Piedmont. Authors: Maurizio Oviglia, Fiorenzo Michelin
“Rocca Sbarua and Monte Tre Denti” by Gianpiero Motti and “Rocca Sbarua, 70 years of climbing” by Michele Carbone.
Climbing Store in Pinerolo
OnBoard is located in the inner centre of Pinerolo: you can find here the best brends for climbing. Fiveten, RockPillars, Mammut, Patagonia and many more. Also available the climbing guidebooks.
Ariaperta Pinerolo is located near to Onboard and you can find both trekking and climbing equipement.
https://www.facebook.com/AriapertaOutdoor
Local Guides
Davide and Paolo from Verticaltrip.net are great experts of these feces. They offer beginner classes and stages for groups and schools.
Coming from France or Swiss?
